You have probably noticed EDTA as an ingredient in cosmetic products or foods that you use every day. But have you ever wondered why companies that are taking a safer and greener approach to cosmetics are rejecting it?
ETDA (ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid) is a petrochemical that acts as a chelating agent. Ιt is able to bind strongly to metal ions (e.g. calcium, magnesium) and capture them. For this reason it has been used since 1930 in the cosmetics industry, because it improves the stability of cosmetic formulations and thus prolongs their shelf life.
According to the FDA (Food and Drug Administration, USAGOV), it is considered safe for use in cosmetics and food products because it has minimal absorption by the skin and digestive system.
There are two reasons why there are concerns about its use:
It is suspected that EDTA may be an eye irritant.
EDTA is considered an environmental pollutant as it is poorly biodegradable and can absorb and remobilise heavy metals found in the environment.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) team of experts found that EDTA and its salts are poorly absorbed by the skin, poorly metabolized and rapidly eliminated. However, because it can be irritating at high concentrations, its use at very low concentrations in cosmetic products was enforced.
However, although not considered a persistent bioaccumulative or toxic pollutant, it is poorly biodegradable. As a result, the water table is polluted with a non-degradable chemical compound that concentrates in aquatic ecosystems and binds to metals, disturbing their balance.
EDTA and its salts occur in the highest concentrations in European waters, which is why it is classified as one of the most important organic pollutants in Europe.
Today, aware of the impact of man-made destruction of the environment, we are now seriously concerned about what is contained in the cosmetic products we use every day.
At ZELIA, we always remain true to our view to protect the environment as much as we can. Thus, we create original and effective formulations, free of ingredients that have been proven or are potentially harmful to humans and the environment.
Targeting discerning, informed and conscientious consumers seeking natural and biodegradable cosmetics and personal care products, we have replaced EDTA in our formulations with two equally effective natural chelating agents.
Specifically, we choose:
Sodium phytate, which is a 100% natural chelating agent. It is COSMOS/ECOCERT approved, easily degradable and its use does not involve any environmental risk.
Sodium gluconate, derived from corn, is another alternative to replace EDTA in cosmetics. It is produced by a natural process, microbial fermentation, is non-toxic, non-irritating and naturally biodegradable.
Sources:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), 2019: https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/EDTA.pdf
- Cosmetic Products Regulation EC No 1223/2009; Annex III
- French National Institute for Industrial Environment and Risks Risks (INERIS), 2011: https://substances.ineris.fr/fr/substance/getDocument/3042
- Oviedo, J. Rodríguez, Química Nova, 2003 DOI: 10.1590/S0100-40422003000600020