Vitamin C (or ascorbic acid) is the secret to glowing, youthful, and healthy skin.
Thanks to its antioxidant, whitening, and anti-aging properties, it is undoubtedly one of the most popular ingredients in skin care. However, it also has its weaknesses.
Ascorbic acid is sensitive and quickly loses its properties when exposed to light, air, or high temperatures. This can lead to discoloration and changes in the pH of the product, reducing its benefits for the skin. The faster the product oxidizes, the less vitamin C will remain active.
Possible Side Effects of High Concentrations of Vitamin C
The use of high concentrations of vitamin C or its derivatives can cause some problems, such as:
• Irritation & Redness: Skin that is already sensitive or oily may react with redness, burning, or tightness. This is due to the high acidity of ascorbic acid.
• Dehydration: High concentrations of vitamin C can act as a mild exfoliant and dehydrate the skin, disrupting its natural moisture balance.
• Sun sensitivity: Ascorbic acid can make the skin more vulnerable to sun exposure. It is very important to use it with sunscreen (SPF). More stable derivatives, such as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, do not cause this sun sensitivity.
• Tightening sensation: In high concentrations, vitamin C products can cause a tightening sensation on the skin, which can be uncomfortable for some people.
Conclusion
The best form of vitamin C in a cosmetic formulation depends on your skin type and needs, as well as the type of cosmetic formulation (oily, creamy, or water-based).
Depending on the type, raw material manufacturers recommend the percentage of use based on studies and dermatological tests.
At ZELIA’s research and development laboratories, we have combined the following in one product:
• Small, medium, and large molecular weight hyaluronic acid microspheres, which moisturize the eye and face skin from within, while protecting against transdermal water loss.
• Vitamin C in a stable water-soluble form (Ascorbyl Glucoside), which fights free radicals, has whitening properties and gives radiance, while helping the skin to produce its own collagen.
• Plant stem cells, which accelerate cell renewal and help regenerate the skin.
Simply choose the Serum with Hyaluronic filling spheres, Vitamin C & Plant Stem Cells ‘APHRODITE’ and enjoy all the visible results that the power of vitamin C has to offer!
Sources:
- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Jul;10 (7)
The review of the topical application of vitamin C and its derivatives, such as ascorbyl glucoside, focuses on the reconstruction of skin tissue and the effect of antioxidants on skin conditions such as discoloration.
- Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P, Lapière C, Nusgens B, Richard A, Schmitt D, Rougier A, Zahouani H. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Exp Dermatol. 2003 Jun;12 (3)
A study analyzing how vitamin C protects the skin from photoaging and its antioxidant action against free radicals caused by solar radiation.
